Friday, Mar. 27 — Safely Across St. Andrew’s Sound

Caught some luck with wind and wind direction for our departure to Fernandina Beach crossing St. Andrew’s Sound. Wind at 13 knots and from the SSW which created some low chop, but nothing scary. Forecast for tomorrow includes peppier winds and a northern persuasion, something definitely to be avoided.  The dock hand at Golden Isles Marina remarked that the sound can get “pretty snotty” in any north wind.  Glad to miss that experience.  Next leg of our trip was about four hours and we encountered some pretty skinny water at low tides.  I tried to get a couple of photos to demonstrate, but they do not quite capture the stomach clenching feeling of watching the depth sounder show shallower and shallower water.  We were also treated to some new wildlife displays — wood storks (which I did not manage to capture on film), white pelicans (which the books say are quite rare) and wild horses (on a island nature sanctuary).  We also saw many other sea birds and the pleasant sight of dolphins slipping easily through the choppy water. Fernandina Harbour Marina is nestled between two gigantic paper mills and is much nicer than that sounds. Wind is up, so no smell. The town itself is charming and compact — something like we expected in St. Simon’s! Lots of independent stores and restaurants, friendly people and relaxed attitudes. Roger got caught in a downpour while strolling downtown and was invited up to take shelter on a beautiful front porch by one of the Fernandina residents.  Stopped in to a bar (shock!) called The Palace which dates from the late 1800’s. The bar itself was designed by Adolph Busch and features carvings of semi-clad maidens and a huge mirror. A tin ceiling and intricate mosaic floor are all original and it really is a bar….no food, no snacks and a distinct hint of spilled beer and cigarettes wafting about. Also, much nicer than it sounds. We’ll spend two nights here which will give us time to stretch our legs, spend some $$ at West Marine and relax aboard without any crewing tasks. Dinner at a local Italian bistro called Ciao tonight, a nice change of pace from our usual seafood spots. And I’m sure we’ll get in a few games of Mexican Train.

Golden Isle Marina is heavily populated with sailboats along with a smattering of good size power boats.
Golden Isle Marina is heavily populated with sailboats along with a smattering of good size power boats.
A flock of royal terns followed Dot.Calm out of port. They've learned that wakes push small fish (breakfast!) closer to the surface.
A flock of royal terns followed Dot.Calm out of port. They’ve learned that wakes push small fish (breakfast!) closer to the surface.
The book says white pelicans are very rare. In all our time in Florida. we've never seen them. They are migratory birds and feed on the water like ducks rather than diving like their cousins the brown pelicans.
The book says white pelicans are very rare. In all our time in Florida. we’ve never seen them before now. They are migratory birds and feed on the water like ducks rather than diving like their cousins the brown pelicans.  They prefer shallow water to catch small fish and crustaceans and often forage in larger groups than shown here.
Some of the wild horses on Jekyll Island, a nature preserve that was once the home of Rockefellers, Roosevelts and other wealthy easterners.
Some of the wild horses on Jekyll Island, a nature preserve that was once the home of Rockefellers, Roosevelts and other wealthy easterners.
Lots of brown pelicans all along the way. Ogden Nash's poem about pelican's beaks holding "more than its belli-can" is true, holding up to 3 gallons. But the water is sieved away before the birds crane their necks upward and swallow the fish they've caught.
Lots of brown pelicans all along the way. Ogden Nash’s poem about pelican’s beaks holding “more than its belli-can” is true, holding up to 3 gallons. But the water is sieved away before the birds crane their necks upward and swallow the fish they’ve caught.
We are in less than 5 feet of water here. Dot.Calm draws 3 feet, but any chop or a wake from another boat can create problems.
We are in just about 4  feet of water here. Dot.Calm draws 3 feet, but any chop or a wake from another boat can create grounding problems.
Yikes! Very skinny.
Yikes! Sailors would call this very skinny water!
Oops. Hard aground ship is a monumental reminder of the danger of shoaling in the Fernandina area.
Oops. Hard aground ship is a monumental reminder of the danger of shoaling in the Fernandina area.
One of the pulp mills that flank the Fernandina Harbour Marina. The smell is pretty terrible if the wind blows the wrong way.
One of the pulp mills that flank the Fernandina Harbour Marina. The smell is pretty terrible if the wind blows the wrong way.
Here we are at the Palace Bar, a landmark on Fernandina Beach's Center Street and very close to the docks.
Here we are at the Palace Bar, a landmark on Fernandina Beach’s Center Street and very close to the docks.
Cruising isn't all fun and games. There's work to be done. Here, Roger takes his frequent turn at KP.
Cruising isn’t all fun and games. There’s work to be done. Here, Roger takes his frequent turn at KP.

2 thoughts on “Friday, Mar. 27 — Safely Across St. Andrew’s Sound”

  1. Grandma, why did you name the yatch dot.com?
    ps. This is Jassa

    Molly and I went to yoga this morning and I had so much fun. BTW it’s Saturday.

    I can’t wait to see you.

    Love
    Jassa

    Reply

    1. Nice to get your note! And we are really, really, really looking forward to your visit. Can hardly wait. Now to your question: Grandma came up with the name. She decided that having some “calm” in her life was a good idea, though not often found on the water. Grandpa thought people would be confused by the name….thinking it was Dot Com, and that has happened a few times. But mostly people think it is clever. Did you ever see the insurance commercial where the guy is asking about “frog insurance” and the person he’s on the phone with assures him that they have “fraud insurance.” After some back and forth, they conclude “I think we are on the same page.” Same type of confusion!

      Reply

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