June 6 — Music, music, music!

Another organ concert and tho’ I’ve rhapsodized about others, I have to adjust my grading curve. Today’s organist, a woman named Jillian Gardner who is studying for an Artist Diploma (something like a PhD for musicians) at Baylor University, was off the chart. She had an uncanny resemblance to Lucy Comerford, so maybe that influenced me too:-) At one point, she was playing the bass line with her feet and playing different tunes on two of the manuals — and changing stops along the way.   Incredible. She wore a pair of ruby shoes which caught my fancy as well.

Ready for the concert!
She sorta looked like Lucy Comerford to me!
Wizard of Oz ruby slippers. She could really move them on the pedals.

 

There was just enough time for breakfast/lunch after that concert (Eli’s Table) and a walk through the festival’s art venue before our next one.

Ann and Mary browsed through the art….Cliff and Jack sat and maybe pondered the bench’s philosophical message.
Door “art” at the entrance to the art venue.
Art tent on the park green.

 

Our afternoon concert was the Sounds of Charleston which took us on a musical journey of the city’s history.  This report is probably more than you want to know about Charleston or the music….but I thought the whole experience was worth memorializing. I don’t have any pictures except for the venue.

Circular Church. A wonderful venue for music.

 

Now! More (than you ever wanted to know) about the concert!! In the 1600’s Charleston was the crown jewel of the English colonies and after the American Revolution it was the richest city in North America — something like 7 of the richest 10 people in America lived here.  Its rich citizens formed the St. Cecelia Society which held an annual concert with the finest musicians in the world. So our concert started with a a terrific bass (Ryan Allen) singing Mozart and Handel. Of course, these riches were built largely on the backs of slaves. More about that later.

Civil War years were highlighted with songs that might have been sung around a campfire by homesick soldiers — north or south.  Bill Schlitt played the guitar and Bart Saylor played the mandolin, lute and mountain dulcimer as they sang these spirited, yet sad songs.

The interlocator for the concert (who was also the guitarist) was an enthusiastic and sincere man who didn’t skip over the horror and shame of slavery, noting that probably half of all the slaves in America came through the harbor at Charleston. He also talked about the mass murder in the Bible study group at Emanuel Church three years ago almost to the day — just three blocks from where we were sitting.  He admitted to being dumbfounded and awed by the ability of the relatives of the victims to forgive the killer. Spirituals were the appropriate music and a professor from the University of Pennsylvania, Dr. Carl Bright, his wife (Guinevere) and daughter (Genesis) were the performers.  He played the piano and they sang — and boy, did they. Their voices blasted the first song, Swing Low, Sweet Chariot, through the room. Electrifying — no microphones required. And what would singing spirituals be like without group participation?  So most of the audience joined in on Wade in the Water — Genesis was louder than all 160 of us!

To round things out, the pianist for the Charleston symphony (Ghadi Shayban) along with Maida Libkin (she is the wife of Bill Schlitt) played Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue. The Charleston connection here is that Gershwin spent many weeks in Charleston working with DuBose Heyward, a Charleston insurance agent, who wrote the book Porgy on which Gershwin’s Porgy & Bess was based.

It all wrapped up with a sing-along Amazing Grace.

Speaking of wrapping up…..

One of the treats Mary and Jack brought was a bottle of wine from her brother’s French vineyard. This vintage is from the first crop that Mary and Jack helped stomp. Not really, but they did pick grapes that year!

 

Dinner tonight at S.N.O.B.  If you’re following along you know what it stands for…..if not Slightly North of Broad.

June 5 — Let’s catch up!

So much to do. And I’ve been neglecting the blog…..sorry!

Cleo and Jim’s departure time on Sunday (June 3) left us enough time for a champagne brunch aboard Dot Calm. Lovely temperature. No bugs. And Costco’s quiche turned out great. (Cleo and I did make the fruit salad….and Jim popped the champagne cork, earning him a thumbs up from the workers on the boat across from us.) Cliff and I spent the rest of the day….resting.

Mary and Jack Anderson arrived on Monday (June 4) bearing boxers and coolers and bags full of goodies. All the things we like. Cheese from Trader Joe’s. Nuts that Mary roasted. Crackers and pretzels. Brownies! Not to mention some gin, some limes, some wine and a new supply of Jameson.  We made good work of much of these that evening and had dinner aboard. Again, the bridge deck was a perfect temperature with gentle (and cool!) breezes as we watched the sunset turn the sky pink and yellow and orange. How could dinner not be great!

What were we thinking?! We made a grocery store run for “snacks” — knowing full well that Mary never arrives empty handed. I would have skipped the marked-down brownies if I’d known she was going to bring homemade ones!
Snacks! Waiting out the afternoon temperatures in air conditioned comfort.
Dinner on the bridge deck.

We started today with an organ concert and then went for an hour-long carriage tour through the “south of Broad” residential area. This area is considered to be the creme de la creme location in the city. We saw LOTS of renovation, learned a lot about the original owners and were flabbergasted at the prices these places get in today’s real estate market…..about $1000 per square foot. Yikes.

Meet Milhouse, the star of the stable according to our guide. Do you remember that Nixon’s middle name was Milhouse?

I think Cliff was having more fun than this picture suggests:-)

Fittingly, we have arranged to have dinner tomorrow at S.N.O.B….which stands for Slightly North of Broad.

Tonight we will have an early dinner at Blossom and then go to the Guillard to hear Brahms German Requiem.

June 2 — Garden Walk, Choral Music and Food!

Hurrah for cloud cover. And for the Charleston Marina’s shuttle van. A decidedly less sweaty start to our day filled with gardens and music.

Cliff happily awaits shuttle. We will NOT get our 10,000 steps in today.

 

Garden tour spots (except for one) allowed photography today as long as you did not photograph the house.  And we peeked in on several gardens not on the tour but impressive nonetheless as we walked from place to place.

 

On view on every street are flower boxes. If they do not have an official competition for the best combination of flowers, vines and greenery, I am absolutely sure there is an informal competition block by block. These arrangements are beautiful bouquets. The flower box below with the house number 26 is where we stayed with Roger and Will for our last Spoleto adventure two years ago.   I am also enchanted with the gas lamps that we’ve seen at a number of places. I bet they are spectacular at night.

 

Saw the Charlotte Symphony Choir at the Round Church at noon. A talented group of mostly young (college age) people with amazing voices. We sat in the second row and could appreciate the ability of the choir conductor to get the voices to meld as they soared to crescendos and then hushed to near silence.

Charlotte Symphony Chorus members at the conclusion of their “Love” concert.
Ceiling of the Circular Congregational Church gives you a little idea of the building’s shape.

 

And, of course, time for a glass of wine and a snack:-) Grilled cheese with bacon jam. Yum. There was a tomato in there somewhere and potato chips and fries, so we managed to get a couple of vegetable credits, right?

Tonight we are seeing the Flying Lovers of Vitebesk, a musical about Marc Chagall and his wife, Bella. It’s gotten rave reviews here. One of the docents I spoke with said it was the best thing she’s seen at Spoleto this year. Stand by for the Comerford/Knowles take!

This is the set for Flying Lovers. Just two main characters with terrific voices and two musicians. All of us gave the show a thumbs up.
Dinner at High Cotton — we must have liked it….our plates are nearly licked clean!

 

May 31 & June 1 — Scads of entertainment

The Comerfords have joined us for some days aboard Dot Calm and for the Spoleto Festival. We all got our “steps” in as we walked to and from the various venues….logging nearly 17,000 Thursday and just slightly fewer the day before and today. (The quarter mile walk to the showers on the dock helps too.) Perhaps all that walking will offset all the food we’ve been treating ourselves to.

A highlight was a late dinner Thursday night at Fig, whose chef was recently named a James Beard award winner. When Cliff asked Siri for the restaurant’s phone number, she responded by telling him it was a 4 1/2 Star restaurant and quite pricey, “is this the number you were looking for?” Never felt like the phone was checking our bank balance before:-). Dinner was terrific by the way!

Dinner at Fig!
Dinner at Hank’s Seafood.
Iced coffee on King Street.
Cleo and me at Poogan’s Porch in our Grrr Animals outfits:-)

 

Thursday we enjoyed a very eclectic mix of music: blues by Shrimp City Slim in the morning, a chamber music concert in the afternoon and a Latin jazz band in the evening. Even the chamber music concert offered diversity…an oboe concerto, a new music piece describing a tornado, Schubert’s Lebenssturme for four hands and a violin performance of themes from Carmen. And all of these were introduced by a knowledgeable and, improbably, very funny emcee who is the director of chamber music for the festival, an accomplished violinist and a professor at Stanford University. He studied with the same teacher as the violin soloist. The whole event was impressive.

Good Mornin’ Blues. “They” say the blues will get you any time of day or night. We weren’t “blue” in the slightest, but enjoyed the music.
Shrimp City Slim at the morning blues concert. Event was held in a church hall that also hosted a “Recovery Art” exhibit — paintings by mentally ill people. All the sales proceeds go directly to the artists.
Stage at the Guillard Center where we saw Chucho Valdez Quartet.
Ceiling oculus at the Guillard Center.

 

More music on Friday — an organ concert in the morning and a choral concert in the late afternoon. We squeezed in lunch at Magnolia’s in-between. Now the issue for me is squeezing into my shorts! (I have a rule about packing for extended vacations….no elastic waist bands!!)

Today’s organist is a recent University of Southern Carolina graduate heading to Norte Dame for post-grad work.
Organ recitals are held in churches throughout Charleston which must have the highest density of world-class organs in the nation.

 

Did I mention the heat!? An occasional rainstorm is welcome relief.

We stopped by a park along the river-front and cooled off by proxy watching kids cavort in the water jets at this fountain.
A post-lunch stop at a park in a swinging bench in the SHADE!
Cleo at the park with a Magritte sky behind her.